Late Fall Challenge – Item 3

After sewing up the first two items, both tops, I thought it was time to tackle the trousers. As stated previously I had decided to make up the Clover pattern from Colette Patterns in a blue denim.

I spend a lot of time in jeans and my aim was to create a pair of trousers that could be worn like jeans (ie every day and for every occasion!) but were a little bit different. I made up version 1 of the trousers – ankle length and with pockets.

Trousers have always seemed daunting to make but actually a lot of them, construction wise, are realtively easy to put together. There are not many pieces (often just a front leg and back leg and waistband) and most of the sewing is straight lines. The difficult bit is in getting the fit right. Something to do with the relationship between the crotch, hips and waist can make fitting trousers a nightmare – and that is before we even think about thigh circumference or inner leg measurements!

The Colette Patterns blog recently did a Clover sew along and had lots of useful information about fitting. I also read up a little in my sewing books and then whipped up a muslin. The best muslins, if you read into it, are made up in fabric that a similar consistency to the fabric you are going to use for the finished article. The Clover pattern calls for fabric with a little bit of stretch and the denim I planned to use had that. Unfortunately that was the only fabric that I had that did have any stretch (other than some very stretchy jersey) which therefore meant that the muslin I made wasn’t entirely helpful. But, time being precious at the moment, I decided to plough on.

The muslin had at least confirmed that the crotch length was fine so I cut out the pieces in the denim fabric and basted them all together to check the fit more accurately.

The only adjustment I ended up making was to take some width off the back leg pieces from the hip to the back of the knee. If I had worked this out on the muslin I would have sliced the pattern piece in the middle and taken the width out of the centre but as it was I just took in the inner leg side seam and a little on the outer leg side seam and to be honest that seemed to work fine.(Please excuse the brush and my efforts at cleaning up in the corner of the photo).

As the denim was relatively thick I decided to use a thinner fabric for the inner waistband and the pockets – recognise it?

The pockets fit into the lower part of the front waistband giving a lovely clean line with no bunching at the side seams.

Now, other than getting a pair of trousers that I actually wear (which is obviously the aim – and something to definitely be proud of!) the thing I am most proud of are the mock flat felled seams…

Hmmm, I thought you might ask. Take a look at thisYou see the seam on the right and to the left what might at first instance appear like top stitching. But, it is much cleverer than that you see that is a mock flat felled seam. Smart and professional looking on the outside and oh so clean and tidy on the inside. I could lyric on about these seams but I suspect that would be very boring for anyone reading and so instead for those of you who might be interested I will just say that for more information and very good instruction on “how to” click here. (No surprises for guessing that the tutorial I have linked to is on the Colette Patterns blog).

Well, I think that is all I have to say. All in all I love these trousers and have already worn them several times. They totally achieve the aim of being casual but just a bit different to ordinary jeans and I am already planning several other pairs.

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